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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.